Picking Pots And Pans

POSTED: 2:21 pm CST January 19, 2004

    Q: What pot set is the best on the market? --Diane Thompson

That's a tough question, because there are so many different types and compositions of pots and they have so many different characteristics.

For general-purpose cooking, my very favorite cookware is Magnalite cast aluminum. It's almost indestructible, has excellent, even heat conductivity and the price won't break your budget. I've even found a place online, Brohm's Online, that sells a full line. If you don't recognize Magnalite, it's a safe bet your mothers or grandmothers do. I know my sister still uses a Magnalite roaster she inherited from my mom that was purchased before I was born.

If money is absolutely no object, though, I'd go with All-Clad. The heat transmission is slightly more even than the Magnalite, and it sure looks snazzy.

A friend of mine is filling out a wedding registry, and I steered him toward All-Clad. He yelped at the prices, but I pointed out that these were pots his grandkids would be using. He then passed out, as he hasn't yet wrapped his brain around the idea of having kids, must less grandkids, but the point was made.

However, there are some times, especially with low-fat or fat-free cooking, that a Teflon nonstick surface is essential. You haven't had fun until you've welded some broiled salmon to a standard pot.

However, I'm not going to tell you to go spend big bucks on Calphalon or some other "professional" nonstick pan. It is, in my opinion, unnecessary. EKCO and numerous other companies make perfectly good nonstick skillets in the $15-$25 range ... and if you scratch them with a metal utensil you won't want to go step in front of a bus.

And, of course, NO kitchen is complete without cast iron. In fact, if you're a true cast iron devotée, you can live with JUST that. To me, there's only one name when it comes to my favorite jet-black, indestructible cooking surface: Lodge. The Lodge Co. has been making cast iron cookware since Hector was a pup, and they know everything there is to know about it. For those of you flummoxed or intimidated by the seeming voodoo around the "seasoning" process, they sell Lodge Logic preseasoned pots.

The best place to hunt your Lodge is in the camping section of your local sporting goods warehouse. I advise against ordering online, as the weight of the items can make the shipping charges pretty crippling.

Even in the world of cast iron, though, there are luxury items. While my budget won't allow one, I've got friends who swear they'd just shut down their kitchens if forced to give up their Le Creuset enamel cast iron pots.

    Q: I purchased some new "Livingquarters" bakeware from a local department store in our area. If you are not familiar with the line, it is a heavy, dark metal and somewhat expensive. To date, I have not been able to bake with the pans without the bottoms of cookies, cakes, etc., becoming burned (or close to it) before the centers are properly baked. I have tried lowering the temperature of the oven, adjusting the racks, etc., and haven't succeeded yet. I was unable to find a Web site for the actual company. Do you have any advice for me? Thank you for your time! --Julie Lyle

A: I was unable to find "Living Quarters" bakeware listed with any major retailer. It's possible that it is a cheaply made product being sold under a "house" label. You might try using a layer of parchment paper to help with the overly enthusiastic heat transmission.

This relates well to the first question we handled this week, though. While it's not necessary to spend a car payment for good cookware, it's also wise to avoid off- or house-brand cookware that's not made by a recognized manufacturer. If it's too cheap to believe, it's likely too cheap to get any good use from.

    Q: As a new cook and baker, I become confused when recipes call for brown sugar but do not specify dark or light. I would appreciate any help with this question. --Jayne Woods

A: As a rule, if the type of brown sugar is not specified, use light. Dark brown sugar contains more molasses and the taste can take over a dish if it's not allowed for.

    Q: My question is that can I marinate or dry rub seasoning and herbs onto my chicken and then freeze it? Does it get a chance to mix in with the meat well that way? Sometimes when I take a chicken out of the freezer on my busy days, I don't have time to season it like I would like so I thought I could save myself sometime and add myself some flavor if I could prepare it then freeze it before cooking. --Tommy Taylor

A: When you freeze meat, the seasoning process will stop. However, when you take it out to thaw in the fridge, it will resume while the meat thaws. You'll kill two birds (pardon the pun) with one stone. Beware of doing this with marinades containing a lot of sugar, as the sugar crystals can cut the meat fibers and turn your meat into goo when it's cooked.

    Q: Can you tell me how to include zucdhini in a recipe or as a vegetable in tomato sauce without that bitter taste? And how do you blanch it to freeze? --Ann

A: The bitterness comes from the skins, especially in larger zucchini. If you buy small (no more than the size of a jumbo hot dog) zucchini, you'll avoid this problem.

To blanch before freezing, immerse slices or spears in boiling water for 30 seconds, then drain thoroughly and pack airtight.

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