The Long And Shortening Of It

Q: I have always been confused when a recipe calls for shortening (such as cookies). Does it mean butter, margarine, or Crisco? Also, when should butter not be substituted for margarine, and vice-versa? -- Catherine

A: While the term "shortening" actually means any product used to make dough, pastry or batter richer or more tender, in common (and recipe) parlance the term refers to products such as Crisco, which are whipped and partially hydrogenated vegetable oils. Shortening usually has a relatively low smoke point, but is very pure. It doesn't impart any flavor to food. If your recipe calls for shortening, especially in baking, use shortening. You MAY be able to substitute butter at least partially, but I'd avoid using margarine.

As far as swapping butter for margarine, it's OK as long as you're not baking. I've had very mixed results trying to trade them out in cookies and cakes. They have different cooking characteristics, and that can result in soggy or overly browned end products, among other malfunctions.

Q: Why can I not save and use the tasty meat marinades i make? If i marinade in the refrigerator, and safely prepare the meats and other ingredients; tnen cook the marinade to serve "au jus," it should be clear of the spoilage issues. -- Debbie C.

A: We need to watch terminology here. What you're talking about, provided you bring the marinade to a boil for three minutes to kill off any transient bacteria, should be pretty safe. I frequently use my marinades to baste the meat I'm cooking. Be careful when reducing marinade to make a sauce, as often the flavors that made it taste so good will make it taste horrible when reduced. You might reduce it, then add some of the reduction to a stock or other gravy base.

To be TOTALLY safe, set aside a bit of the marinade mix for later use before you put the rest on the meat.

However, never EVER reuse marinade, even boiled, to marinate another piece of meat. You're taking risks both with flavors and health that just aren't worth the small amount of money you'd save.

Q: What is the reason for using kosher salt over regular salt? I've seen it used in recipes. -- Daniel D.

A: Kosher salt, with its big flakes, is what you want to use especially when it comes to sprinkling on grilled meat and fish. Because of its composition, it doesn't dissolve and penetrate the meat fibers as quickly. You thus can get a great crust on the outside without actually making the food taste too salty.

Also, kosher salt is PURE. Table salts frequently have anti-clumping agents added that some more discerning palates claim impart a bitter flavor in cooking. I've never tasted it myself, to be honest, but I stick to kosher just to be safe.

If you're replacing table salt with kosher in a recipe, increase the amount by 50 percent to account for the composition. Thus, if the recipe calls for ½ tsp., use ¾ tsp. instead.

Q: My son is allergic to milk. He drinks rice milk. I have found ways to work around a lot of things. Something I really miss making is fudge. Do you know a substitute I can use for sweetened condensed milk?

A: I've seen vanilla soy milk, especially Rice Dream brand, used in dairy-free fudge recipes. I've even seen nondairy coffee creamer used!

Anyone out there experimented with either of these, or any other milk substitute, in fudge? Let me know.

Q: What do the words "mock," used to discribe beef cuts; and "picnic," used with pork cuts, mean? R. P. Jones

A: While "mock" today frequently refers to textured vegetable protein or other meat-substitute items ("mock" chili, etc.), in butcher's parlance it refers to a cut of meat sliced to make it masquerade as another one. For instance, I've seen flank steak cut as "mock" filet mignon.

The "mock tender" cut is often sold as a roast and is a cone-shaped cut next to the top blade in the chuck primal. It can also be cut into steaks. The name "mock tender" is misleading because the meat is rather tough so it is best when it is braised. The mock tender steak is also known as fish steak, chuck fillet steak, and chuck tender steak.

As far as "picnic" goes, it's generally applied to pork shoulders, usually ones sold as hams. They're not the leanest cut around, but the flavor is great.

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