Eleven Bargain German Rieslings

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The wine world seems to be finally catching on to the terrific bargains that can be found in German rieslings. My colleague, David Schildknecht, has put together a nice selection of bargain picks. We've tried to indicate whether the wines are "semi-dry," which means they exhibit some residual sugar but have so much fresh acidity that they will largely taste dry to most consumers, and those that are, in fact, dry.



87 points

2007 Alfred Merkelbach Urziger Wrzgarten Riesling Sptlese A.P. #11 [semi-dry white)



The 2007 Urziger Wrzgarten Riesling Sptlese A.P. #11 briefly evinces a slight cheesiness often encountered in youthful Mosel Riesling, but this shakes off to reveal abundant, site-typical aromas and flavors of fresh strawberry and lime. At only 8.5% alcohol, this riesling wafts across the palate with strawberry chiffon-like airiness. $24



87 points

2007 Knstler Riesling Trocken [dry white)



Gunter Knstler's basic 2007 Riesling Trocken suggests that this will be a vintage of clarity and precision. Aromas of white peach, pineapple, and lemon, along with pungent herbal and spicy accents, lead to a juicy, generous palate possessed of a subtly oily texture and a brothy richness. The wine is suggestive of the fruit pits, chalk dust, and citrus zest typical of the chalky sites of Hochheim. A bittersweet finish completes the satisfying picture. This should drink well for a couple of years. $25



87 points

2007 Meulenhof Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett [semi-dry white)



Stefan Justen's 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett displays a classic aromatic profile for this great site, with sassafras, pineapple, and orange sherbet persisting in a generous, juicy, yet subtly creamy palate display with undertones of toasted cashews, baking spices, and wet stone. You can enjoy this now, in its well-balanced but prominent sweetness, or put it away to "dry out" for four to five years. $22



87 points

2007 Selbach-Oster Riesling Kabinett [semi-dry white)



Johannes Selbach's 2007 Riesling Kabinett -- with its [for Kabinett] relatively high 9.5% alcohol -- offers considerable appeal, even if it misses the delicacy or deft balance that characterize the top Kabinett wines from this estate. Green apple, lime, licorice, and honey are the key themes, and hints of ginger and wet stone add interest to the finish, while persistent citrus helps offset the sweetness. Anyone who cares to hold this wine for 4 to 5 years will be rewarded with further complexity and can rest assured that it will remain refreshing. $25



87 points

2007 Von Hvel Riesling Balduin von Hvel [semi-dry white)



The 2007 Riesling Balduin von Hvel is full of fresh apple and cherry with hints of lime and wet stone.



With only 8% alcohol, and balancing far more residual sugar than appears in the form of sweetness, this simple, generous Saar Riesling finishes with an especially refreshing burst of citrus. I would plan to drink it within 12 to 18 months for its fruity charm. $16



88 points

2007 Gunderloch Riesling Kabinett Jean-Baptiste [semi-dry white)



The 2007 Riesling Kabinett Jean-Baptiste from Gunderloch is a highly successful installment of that wine from the classic red soils of Nackenheim and Nierstein. Hints of sweet peach, tangerine zest, and musk melon in the nose lead to an orange sorbet-like palate with smoke, wet stone, and bitter citrus zest inflections. The residual sugar here really supports the fruit, then it backs off to permit a finish highly suggestive of minerality. This can be enjoyed for at least the next three to five years. $20



88 points

2007 Josef Leitz Riesling Eins Zwei Dry [dry white)



With his 2007 Riesling Eins Zwei Dry, Johannes Leitz has produced an outstanding dry riesling value. Weighing in at a mere 12% alcohol [dry wines from Leitz's top holdings in the steep Rdesheimer Berg frequently top 14%], this crisp, sappy, satin-textured riesling displays salted peach and lemon, and a subtly piquant, smoky, stony, saline, peach-kernel finish. It will be a joy to drink over at least the next two years. $18



88 points

2007 Mnchhof Riesling Sptlese Mosel Slate [semi-dry white)



Robert Eymael's 2007 Riesling Sptlese Mosel Slate represents excellent value and an archetype of Mosel Sptlese. With suggestions of orange sherbet, nectarine, sweet lime, and sassafras, this wine saturates the nose and palate with fruit and spice, finishing with an exuberance that helps keep its considerable sweetness from seeming at all out of place [and don't miss the 2006!]. Enjoy it over the coming three to four years. $23



88 points

2007 Zilliken Riesling Butterfly [dry white)



The latest installment of Hanno Zilliken's "brand" [dry-tasting, although by no means analytically dry], the 2007 Riesling Butterfly broadcasts aromas of peach, cherry, lemon, and wet stone. Generously stuffed with orchard fruits on the palate [despite its modest alcohol], this wine also displays an imposing depth of saline and wet-stone mineral manifestations. While meant to be enjoyed over the coming nine months, it will keep for a couple of years with no problem. $18



89 points

2007 Reichsrat von Buhl Riesling Halbtrocken [dry white)



The latest von Buhl riesling [featuring musician Maria Schneider's signature and a jazz theme on the label] is labeled "medium dry" on one side, but that's a highly misleading translation, since it tastes essentially dry. It also tastes delicious. Suggestions of sweet corn, nut oils, and citrus zest on the nose usher in a subtly oily-textured, expansive, yet refreshingly bright [and with merely 11% alcohol] palate. The piquant bittersweet finish features white peach, maize, peach pit, toasted nuts, and citrus oils. It will have you smacking your lips. Besides the impeccable balance of this halbtrocken wine, you'll find it amazingly versatile if you give it a chance to perform at the table over the coming year or two. $17



90 points

2007 Fritz Haag Riesling [semi-dry white)



The Fritz Haag estate frequently bottles memorable wines even at the generic level, and their 2007 riesling is a case in point. With an effusive nose of white peach, grapefruit, mango, peony, and nut oils, it displays a superb balance of residual sugar and acidity on the palate [at 11% alcohol]. The effect is one of only very subtle sweetness. Rich nut oil and ripe fruit flavors, as well as stony minerality, are perfectly set off in a long finish. The high extract and vibrant acidity that seem to characterize the 2007 vintage are here on impressive display. One can enjoy this beauty over the next four to five years. $24