A Taste Of Magic

Steve Vuylsteke walks between the long green rows of Oregon's Dion Vineyard and his senses come alive. His ears listen to the steady snick-snick of the pickers. His eyes appraise the smallish, closely packed russet-colored grapes hovering two feet above the sun-drenched soil. He gathers a bunch in his hands, holds them close to his face and savors their aroma. Then he bites into one and chews slowly, taste buds appraising a kaleidoscope of flavor learned by a lifetime of winemaking. Steve spits out the pit, takes a deep, satisfied breath, grins and says, "They're just about ready."

Harvest season in wine country is the time of year that growers and winemakers live for. They have only a few days to make the decision when to gather the grapes, press and process and allow the slow, gentle process of fermentation to begin. Computers can provide weather predictions and fine measurements of sweetness and acidity. But winemakers still rely on their instincts and educated palates when they decide it's time to pick.

The fall season, with its riot of color in the countryside, is a perfect time to taste the winemaker's art. And more wineries in the West are turning out superb wines. Mention Wine Country ten years ago, and you'd think of California's Napa and Sonoma Valleys. But Oregon is celebrating its third superlative growing season in a row, and Washington's Yakima Valley is gaining a reputation for memorable vintages. Here are some wine tasting destinations that should give you a lot to savor, beyond that first magical sip. Remember, many wineries offer tastings by appointment only, so it's a good idea to call ahead before you drop in,

Covey Run Winery, Zillah, Wash.: Renowned for its Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling, the Covey Run Winery also rewards visitors with a glorious view of the surrounding countryside. Covey Run's setting is so picturesque, many couples hold weddings here. www.coveyrun.com

Terra Blanca Vintners, Benton City, Wash.: This sparkling new winery also commands a great view of neighboring mountains and valleys. Winemaker/owner Keith Pilgrim often takes guests on tours of Terra Blanca's man-made caves, where select reds age in carefully controlled conditions. www.terrablanca.com

Oak Knoll Winery, Hillsboro, Ore.: This family-owned site, founded in the early '70s, is one of the oldest wineries in Oregon. The Vuylsteke family at Oak Knoll works with local growers to create some of the best Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the region. The atmosphere in the tasting room is friendly, and the view of the tree-studded hillsides from the picnic tables would put the most restless heart at ease. www.oakknollwinery

Montinore Vineyards, Forest Grove, Ore.: A Victorian mansion is the crown jewel in this beautiful Oregon winery. Don't miss a stroll in Montinore's grotto, where you can contentedly sip Montinore's Gew?rztraminer or White Riesling, while listening to the rustle of wind chimes. (503) 359-5012

Chehalem Winery, Sherwood, Ore.: If you're looking to learn more about wine and wine tasting, Chehalem owner Henry Peterson-Nedry is the perfect tutor. Give him a call, and Henry will present a personalized sample of the best Chehalem's three vineyards have to offer. Chehalem's Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir have garnered praise for their boldness and intensity, and its dry Riesling is exceptional. www.chehalemwines.com

Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, Napa, Calif.: Tiers of red rock surround one of the most popular wineries in a region bursting with premiere cellars. The Winiarski family has built on Stag's Leap's reputation for thirty years, and all the work and care shows in the label's brilliant Cabernets. www.stagsleapwinecellars.com

Pine Ridge Winery, Napa, Calif.: Glass sculpture by Dale Chihuly graces the fields at one of California's best small wineries. Gary and Nancy Andrus founded Pine Ridge in 1978, and its underground caves shelter more than 3,000 barrels of premium Cabernet. www.pineridgewinery.com

The Hess Collection, Napa, Calif.: Great wine and art match perfectly at this elegant winery/gallery in Monterey County. Swiss art collector Donald Hess bought the old Christian Brothers winery and created a unique setting for exquisite wines and a collection of art that includes works by Frank Stella, Magdalena Abakanowicz, and Robert Rauschenberg. The galleries form a fitting backdrop for sampling the Hess Collection of Cabernets and Chardonnays. www.hesscollection.com

Niebaum-Coppola, Rutherford, Calif.: Film director Francis Ford Coppola has brought a taste of Hollywood to the Napa Valley, after taking over the former site of the Inglenook Vineyards Niebaum-Coppola wines, especially the reds, continue to receive high marks from critics. Tour the ivy-covered chateau (the vaulted cellars and hand-carved staircase are magnificent) and you get a chance to see Coppola's movie memorabilia, including Vito Corleone's desk and chair from the Godfather. www.niebaumcoppola.

Arrowood Vineyards and Winery, Glen Ellen, Calif.: This beautiful facility is now part of the Robert Mondavi family. In addition to some fine cabernets, Arrowood has built an enviable reputation for its Merlot and Pinot Blanc. The view from the veranda of Arrowood's Hospitality House is magnificent. www.arrowoodwinery.com