Beyond Tijuana: The Best Of Baja
The long column of two-wheelers had left the soot and confusion of Tijuana long behind. We had swung past Rosarito, and now the coastline that looked so dark and mysterious in the San Diego twilight was revealing itself. To our left were rolling hills of brown and green; to the right, as we headed south, glimpses of sandy beaches and perfect breakers.
Nursing my aching quads, I hitched a ride with some friends as we made our way back north, up the toll road from Ensenada. On that route, we caught a sunset that took our breath away: spectacular oranges and reds bouncing off distant clouds and turning the cliffs south of El Mirador to gold. The breakers rumbled below, and the ocean's blue turned from opalescent to midnight as we followed the gently rippling Pacific to the horizon.
There are so many wonders that await only a flight, a drive or a cruise away from southern California. Here's a partial list of favorites.
Scuba Diving At La Bufadora
Winding fronds of kelp and abundant marine life make this one of the best dive spots on the peninsula. You'll see lots of sea anemones and nudibranches, schools of fish, even a lobster or two. Dale's La Bufadora Dive Shop will help get you set up for exploring.
Whale Watching At San Ignacio Lagoon
This spot is a great place to meet a gray whale up close. The whales that come to the lagoon to calve are curious and incredibly friendly. Some venture close enough to touch.
Baja Adventures takes most of the fuss out of a whale-watching vacation. They're now booking tours for late winter and early spring. A five-day expedition, including charter airfare, runs around $1,650.
Sea Kayaking Out Of Loreto
This town in the southern part of the peninsula (Baja California Sur) is a superb gateway to fabulous paddling in the Sea of Cortez and the islands hovering off the eastern Baja coast. Sea Trek Tours has eight-day expeditions, leaving Loreto in March and April. NorthStar Adventures offers a dazzling 10-day sea kayak-camping trip from Loreto to La Paz through April. The $1,650 cost does not include airfare.
Sportfishing Out Of Los Cabos
Catch and release is the rule here, but after you finish battling a billfish for an hour or so to bring it close to the boat, you really don't mind letting it go to fight another day. The skippers of the Pisces Fleet will get you out to where the big ones are biting.
Dinner In Todos Santos
If you want to get the feel of Los Cabos before the tourists westernized so much of the area, take a trek to Todos Santos. After a day of gallery-hopping and bookstore-browsing at El Tecolote Libros, you have two outstanding options for your evening meal: El Pariente de Ensenada, next to Hotel Misiones del Pilar, has some of the best seafood in the region, and for some of the best Northern Italian food on the planet, check out the Caf? Santa Fe. The ravioli stuffed with crab and lobster is out of this world.
Sunset From The Pool At The Finisterra
Hotel Finisterra commands one of the finest views of any lodging in Cabo San Lucas. The pool at the hotel's Palapa Beach Club is the perfect place to soothe yourself after a day of golf, deep-sea fishing or ATV riding. A room with a water view will run you about $140 per day -- pretty good, considering the surroundings.
