Desert Delight: Rediscovering Palm Springs
Hear the words "Palm Springs," and you're likely to conjure up images of fusty folks in polyester, doddering about on putting greens, or a spring-break haven for college students on the make.
Golf is still a huge draw here. But this cluster of resort communities has made a major-league effort to broaden its appeal.
Many members of the retirement set have dispersed a bit, to outlying towns such as Rancho Mirage, Indian Wells and Palm Desert. An anti-thong ordinance instituted by former mayor Sonny Bono put a damper on the spring break influx.
Celebrities still visit the desert oasis that offered exclusive retreats for the likes of Bob Hope, Frank Sinatra and Elvis, and senior citizens still head to Palm Springs in healthy numbers. But these days, the community also offers rest stops, restaurants and activities that can entice every member of your family.
Getting There
Palm Springs is about a two-hour drive down Interstate 10 from Los Angeles. Get off at the California 111 turnoff. Several airlines service Palm Springs Regional Airport, including Alaska, American, Delta and United.
Where To Stay
Summer is the offseason in desert communities like Palm Springs, so you can take advantage of some hefty discounts, if you can brave the heat. The Spa Hotel and Casino in Palm Springs offers a reduced summer rate that includes 50 percent off a spa experience, plus a casino voucher.
Agua Caliente Hotel and Mineral Water Spa in Desert Hot Springs also offers some enticing seasonal specials. Packages include private Jacuzzi suites tailored to soaking in the resort's natural mineral waters.
Prepare to be pampered at the Merv Griffin Resort and Givenchy Spa. This cost-is-no-object haven offers deluxe accommodations at a facility that looks like a Versailles palace. The place has suites with separate salons, private patios and mountain or garden views. Personalized spa packages include everything from facials to mud wraps to aromatherapy. All-included rates for a week run about $5,500.
Look for a touch of the Mediterranean in the California desert, and you'll find the Korakia Pensione. The Korakia is a romantic delight, with architecture that blends Greek and Moroccan influences and rooms that feature fireplaces, full kitchens or private balconies. Rates run between $120 and $300. You can use a credit card to hold a room, but not to pay for it.
For a memorable bed-and-breakfast experience, consider a stay at the Willows Historic Palm Springs Inn. The place was built in the 1920s. Albert Einstein, Marion Davies and Carole Lombard were all regular guests. The inn's eight guest rooms feature antique furniture, hardwood floors and private baths with handmade tiles and fireplaces. The inn's hillside garden, waterfall and swimming pool are accessible only to guests.
What To Do
The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway is one of the best ways to see the area. The scenery can be breathtaking as the tram ascends and descends Mount San Jacinto. The tram is getting a complete overhaul, installing new 80-passenger cars during midsummer. The new cars will rotate 360 degrees twice per trip. They'll be roomier and will offer better views from bigger window space. The tram closed June 1, but will reopen August 19.
You can get a more intimate view of the desert highways surrounding Palm Springs by going on a guided Jeep excursion. Canyon Jeep Tours offers three- and four-hour safaris starting at $49. Included are water, soft drinks, a snack and a souvenir Polaroid.
No matter what your mode of travel, try to find time for a 60-mile side trip to the Joshua Tree National Park. The park boasts some of the most exhilarating desert scenery on the continent.
Golf addicts of all abilities will still find Palm Springs a paradise. The area boasts more than 90 golf courses. Some of the area's most sought-after fairways are on the PGA West TPC Stadium Course at the La Quinta Resort and Club. Designer Pete Dye's state-of-the-art course features king-sized bunkers, plenty of water hazards and even a green that sits in the middle of an island.
If your abilities are more modest, Tommy Jacobs' Bel-Air Greens is a forgiving nine-hole course designed to boost confidence and lower tempers. The Greens feature a misting system to keep you cool during summer.
Start off the day by challenging yourself to a rock climb at Palm Springs' Uprising Rock Climbing Center. The place bills itself as the only outdoor climbing gym in America. The center offers classes, kids' programs and corporate packages.
Put a different spin on a desert drive by renting a Harley from Eagle Rider in Palm Springs. Eagle Rider is offering discounts of their daily motorcycle rental rates during the entire month of June.
There are plenty of great roadways for those of you who want to rely on pedal power. Just show up at Adventure Bike Tours (760-328-2089), and they'll provide the wheels, helmet, certified guide, and even a souvenir water bottle.
Want to tune up your golf game? Try a half-day mini school at the Palm Springs Golf Academy. It's at the Westin Mission Hills Resort in Rancho Mirage.
If you have curious kids, the Palm Springs Museum is offering a minicamp during the months of June and July. Camp sessions are in the morning, from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. The Living Desert Wildlife and Botanical Park has trails surrounded by desert gardens, an earthquake exhibit and an evening light show.
The Mount San Jacinto State Park and Wilderness has plenty of trails to explore. The ranger station is a 10-minute walk from the Aerial Tramway. Take the gentle Desert View Trail, and you may catch sight of deer, eagles or mountain lion tracks.
Want to get above it all? Try a balloon ride. American Balloon Charters (800-FLY-OVER) and Dream Flights offer hot-air trips, but usually not in the hottest months. Plan on booking your Palm Springs balloon ride from September to late May.
If you're into a Woodstock-style music experience, wait until November to make your Palm Springs visit. The second annual Coachella Arts and Music Festival takes place Nov. 4-5. Last year, the festival featured performers such as Beck, Moby, Rage Against the Machine, Took and Morrissey. Goldenvoice Entertainment is organizing the event.
Where To Dine
Eating in the Palm Springs area can be as uncomplicated as grabbing a burrito or as involved as a multi-course meal. Meal prices can also run the gamut from a few bucks to very, very expensive.
The Europa Restaurant at the Villa Royale is one of the city's more romantic dining retreats. A fireplace and candlelight grace the interior. An outdoor patio draws couples during warm nights. The staff is attentive without being intrusive. Signature dishes include rack of lamb and salmon in parchment.
St. James at the Vineyard is another intimate dining favorite. Owners James Offord and Judith Chapman have created a cozy setting for their "world cuisine" offerings. Culinary high points include New Zealand mussels in a coriander and coconut broth and Bouillabaisse Burmese filled with lobster, clams, mussels, tuna, scallops and shrimp.
Looking for family dining? The Blue Coyote Grill has an appealing southwestern decor and serves specialties such as charbroiled chicken breast with mild jalapeño cream sauce, lamb marinated in garlic and grapefruit juice and Mexican crab cakes served with red pepper mayonnaise.
A wonderful authentic Mexican eatery with a menu that's savory yet kind to your wallet is Edgardo's Café Veracruz. The cuisine's flavor comes from Mayan, Huasteco and Aztec influences. A personal favorite: California Tacos de Pescado -- two tacos of lightly breaded mahi mahi, served with herbs, spices and a special house dressing.
Where to Get Help
The people at the Palm Springs Convention and Visitors Bureau have put up a Web site that has lots of information to help you get ready for your visit. Learn more about local points of interest, tours, accommodations, driving directions and what's going on during your stay by checking out www.palm-springs.org online. You can find another helpful guide to the Palm Springs area by visiting www.palmsprings.com.
