Restaurant Review: Sazio Lives Up To Name

First a bit of impressive background: Sazio is the latest "signature restaurant" from Gustav Mauler. No, not the composer, but rather the man responsible for the planning and design of all restaurants within the Mirage Resorts.

Sazio If that doesn't impress you, then you haven't been paying attention. Mirage Resorts redefined Las Vegas dining, taking it from a land of cheap buffets and $1.99 prime rib to a city packed with some of the finest of fine dining in the world. And this man was largely responsible for that.

Sazio, which means "to be satisfied," is an Italian eatery designed to be festive and fun, yet substantial. Take the design, from award-winning architect Paul Steelman. The bright primary colors and kitschy mod furnishings could have been too hip for their own good, but for some reason, it seems to work here. The dining room is inviting, and seems appropriate for both large festive gatherings and more intimate pairings.

Take note of the colorful portraits of Las Vegas celebrities lining the "Survival Wall," a fun concept that will see some of the luminaries "voted off" in a gastronomic version of the TV show.

I'm spending a lot of time on the d?cor primarily because here at Sazio, the ambience is as much a part of the menu as the food itself. It's a pleasant dining companion to be sure.

But on to the food.

The menu is packed with both traditional and more daring Italian fare. Sure, you've got the pepperoni pizza, lasagna and spaghetti with meat sauce, but there's also Chicken Saltimbocca (saut?ed chicken breast with prosciutto ham, provolone, basil and mushrooms), Swordfish Piccata, and Lobster Fra Diavio (served with a spicy marinara over linguini). There's enough of a selection of both familiar and adventurous meals that just about anyone should find something tempting.

Start off with an appetizer of fresh bruschetta or try the calamari. I know, I don't usually like squid, either, but this was actually pretty good. My favorites were the stuffed mushrooms (large caps stuffed with sweet Italian sausage) and especially the "Spinach and Artichoke Dip Al Forno." The latter is served in a thick and creamy parmesan cheese sauce with some crusty pieces of focaccia. Delicious.

There are soups (minestrone and potato) and salads available. I tried the spinach salad, tossed in a balsamic dressing with blue cheese crumbles. It was good, but be warned -- the dressing and the blue cheese will clear out your sinuses.

For entrees, you can select from pizza, pasta, chicken, veal, pork, beef or seafood and, as mentioned above, the choices are substantial. I was lucky enough to be able to sample a variety -- from the shrimp scampi to the veal marsala to the chicken parmesan, and I'm here to tell you it was all delicious. I'm not a seafood fan at all, but the scampi was light and flavorful, a perfect blend of subtle spices and seasonings that won me over. Despite my moral objections to veal, I enjoyed that as well and the chicken parmesan, served crusted with marinara and mozzarella, was as Italian traditional as it gets.

Of special note on the menu is the fact that you can order dishes either "Solo" or "Grandioso," fancy Italian words that ultimately mean small and big. Or in this case, big and bigger. The Grandioso versions of the entrees, appetizers, soups, salads -- everything -- are designed to accommodate that festive atmosphere that I talked about earlier. If there is a big group of you looking for a fun dinner out, come here, order a few of the Grandioso platters and be prepared to start sharing in an honest-to-God family-style meal. It's a terrific idea and couldn't be more appropriate for Vegas gatherings.

But before I stop talking about the food, I would be remiss if I didn't mention desserts. Prior to being wheeled out on a dolly, I sampled the tiramisu, the cannoli, the spumoni, and what was undeniably the best traditional New York-style cheesecake I've ever tasted. I almost blew off a show review later that night to go back and get some to take to my room. But I was worried about the size of my waistline throwing off the rotation of the earth, so I decided not to.

There's also a lunch menu with sandwiches, pizza, pasta and some of the main entrees, plus a wine list and a full bar. You can even get take-out if you want to grab something and go back to your room to avoid the high room-service tariffs.

Prices fall into the "not bad for what you're getting" category, with solo entrees in the $7-$15 range (most hover around $10) and the grandioso versions between $12-$19 (most around $15). Figure with wine, appetizers, dessert, tax and tip, around $25 per person -- less if you don't drink, are watching your weight, or are cheap.

Service is across-the-board excellent -- fast, friendly and very efficient.

Sazio is a lot of fun, with an entertaining atmosphere and menu. It's definitely worth the short drive or cab ride from The Strip.

Sazio
Orleans Hotel & Casino
4500 West Tropicana
Las Vegas, NV 89103
(702) 984-9500

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